Chalkidiki – Skiathos
yacht charters

This is the third part of the logbook that shows our sailing holidays and yacht charters in the Northern Sporades, Greece.

Day 7   Agios Petros – Alonissos

We lifted anchor at 09:15 in a gentle northerly, first 10 knots, and once clear from Kyra Panagia building to 13 knots: light & ideal conditions.
Any ancient civilization remains on the isle of Pelerissa were not visible. Around 11:00 we reached the north cape Aspro of Peristera.

Even from a small distance we noticed that the quay (near a pillar) in the village of Steni Vala was overcrowded by local (small) fishing boats, so with a perfect 15 knots from the north we continued sailing on a broad reach to Patitiri port.

We were desperately in need of drinking water, despite being very economising about showering. So we were limited in our options: probably Steni Vala if near a pillar, certainly Patitiri that has loads of taps / pillars… whereas splendid anchorages like Xero, Adelphi, Votsi, Leftos Gialos or kokkinokastro wouldn't cut it.

Route map Alonissos, Patitiri, sailing Northern Sporades
Third stretch of our route – sailing into Zone B of the Alonissos Marine Park.
Alonissos and Peristera islands: Patitiri port.

It was marvellous to be back in Patitiri port again. When we arrived we were as expected the only visitors and a fisherman assisted us with finding a berth and took our lines around the bollards.
We were docked next to the local mean looking Sea Shepherd vessel that is used e.g. to expose illegal fishing activities.

Once our water shortage was dealt with, we went to explore the village where daughter immediately spotted the immaculate seafront playground, Aside from the villages Alonissos offers many worthwhile hiking trails along halcyon fecund valleys, we needed to leave that for next time.

To visit the Old Village (Chora) Martijn and Robbert decided to walk, while Rozemarijn, the little one and me took a taxi uphill whereupon the driver conveniently dropped us off at yet again a superbly outfitted and shaded playground.

The group met up at our favourite THEA restaurant for lunch on their balcony featuring panoramic views over the Mourtia bays.

All except one walked back down to port Patitiri: I carried the little one who was exhausted from so much impressions and playgrounds.

As always Martijn found the best restaurant / ouzeri in port: “To Kamaki” The Harpoon. From the veranda – fashioned in the typical Sporades architectural style – we had a direct view onto the port and our solitary mast. And although we would be leaving too early in the evening to enjoy their live Greek music, the owner (one of the musicians) showed us his favourite bouzouki and laouto.

Day 8   Alonissos Patitiri – Skopelos port

The morning started leisurely and we decided to sail to Skopelos town & port. All weather forecasts promised a NE 12 knots, yet wind funneling would surely mean >20 knots and northerlies in the Alonissos strait.
Effectively the wind increased to 18 knots, and the closer we got to Agios Georgios islet (a bird sanctuary) in this strait, the more the wind backed from NE to NWN.

From experience we knew that it was crucial to keep watch for ferries – either coming from the direction of Skiathos or from Alonissos – while we were beating to Skopelos' main ferry port.

Also aiming for the main port was a beautiful wooden Dutch / Swedish built sailing yacht, with two flapping headsails that excessively hugged the southern coastline of Skopelos.

We entered the port neatly between ferry departures / arrivals. And - surprisingly - on the desired D – E section of the mole were six private sailing yachts and catamarans, highlighting that we were getting closer to civilization. In the summer months you can expect 10 times as much charter yachts.

With ample space – and the Swede moored alongside – I too decided mooring alongside would be easier, instead of going stern-to. This turned out be challenging with a twin rudder, since there was no prop water flowing over the rudders. Furthermore, the little one got a scare from the noisy bow thrusters and came on deck crying her poor heart out, which didn't help the skipper keeping his cool. With some welcome assistance from our Swedish collegue we finally worked our way upwind as well as sideways into our berth.

Although this manoeuvre was far from straightforward, we did end up at the intended pillar with just a slightly bruised ego. Time to cuddle daughter dear and make acquaintance with our friendly neighbour plus learn the story of his stunning gaff rigged vessel: Pangea measured 20 m LOA due to the lenghty bowsprit, a beam of 5 m, while still just a draught of 2,3 m.

On the outside of the beginning of the mole is a nice swimming spot, but first we had a look at the monument of the unknown soldier at section G – H - celebrating the courage and sacrifice of all sailors who have lost their lives at sea. Next, we knew we had to visit a few churches, since the island has over 360 churches and chapels. Even the town by itself – concealed in a lovely maze of streets – features 120 places of worship. The most important and oldest is the single-aisled Basilica of Agios Athanasios built in the 11th century in the area of “Kastro”, the Venetian Castle with just a few 13th c. elements remaining.

Skopelos town has many refreshing lemon trees but was not as clean as Patitiri town or Alonissos Chora.
We wound our way up to “Taverna Peparithos”, treasured for its vistas and greensward terraces, but alas, the owner informed us that we were a week too early and they were not yet opened. Dinner instead at Magali (the grill, gyros and salads champion of the port) and no salads yet (again we were too early in season).
After the thumping music faded at eleven-ish we enjoyed an uninterupted sleep on board.