Logbook: Athens – Milos 3

Part 3   Kythnos - Paros

This time we decided to sail from Athens on a one-way bareboat charter to Milos (last two weeks of May). This is part three of the logbook that describes this adventure.

Day 9   Kythnos

Today, it was time to explore the inlands of Kythnos, so we rented scooters and helmets to match. We also tried to visit the Loutra spa, like we did last time when we visited Kithnos. But, although the hot springs still run, no visitors come to use it any more. Years ago we anchored here in Ay Irini bay (see photo) opposite the so-called marina.

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Map of North cyclades, Kithnos, Serifos, Sifnos, Siros and Paros

Although most travel books describe Kythnos as barren, due to the wet spring this year the fields were brightly coloured with an abundance of flowers.

Day 10   Kythnos - Serifos

Since there were sharks about we decided to move on to Livadia on Serifos Island. After some good sailing we tried many of the southern bays for a good lunch stop. But most are now occupied by unsightly (remains of) fish farms or the remains. Instead we anchored west of Koutala bay to experience the notorious magnetic anomalies caused by the iron ore mines close ashore. Though perhaps we anchored east of Koutala bay…

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When we approached Livadia we got an excellent view of the magnificent chora looming over the bay. Yet, after a climb of 45 min we discovered that this chora is more interesting when seen from sea level. After the descent we had a nice fruit-de-mer diner at the waterfront.

Day 11   Serifos - Sifnos

In the morning we set sail for Kamares on Sifnos Island but planned to explore some beautiful inlets in the west of Sifnos as well. The first one, Ag Yiourious, proofed an uninteresting place. Yet, just north of Kamares lays “Hidden bay” – so-called because it is very difficult to spot. Here the surroundings were quite a treat and we spent some good hours before proceeding to Kamares in the late afternoon. Once ashore we rented scooters and dealt with laundry and personal hygiene at the near camping site.

Day 12   Sifnos

We still had the scooters for the whole day and we commenced by exploring Apollonia, which is the main place on the island. From there we visited the lovely littoral village of Kastro and enjoyed multiple café frappés at the Remezzo music bar, that provided - besides music - excellent panoramic views.

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The next highlight – besides riding these scooters – was the Chrisopigi church, which sits upon a peninsula that has actually split from the mainland, a miracle that is said to have occurred when Sifniot women took refuge from Pirates there. We finished our local tour with a culinary apogee in Sifnos' finest restaurant: To Liotrivi Το Λιοτριβι.

Day 13   Sifnos – Naoussa Paros

Due to un-greek like weather, life jackets, boots and dry suits made their appearance on deck, and even seasickness tablets were distributed for those doubting their abdomen. However, the pharmaceutical industry let us down with a low score of 5 crewmembers in misery. Mark even managed to spray the whole cockpit.

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But soon, the winds eased to 17 knots and ahead of us Anti-Paros appeared through the haze. Though we had planned to reach Naxos, we stopped at Naoussa (Naousa), the little gem of Paros. In the harbour we used the laid mooring lines at the root of the mole.

Day 14   Naoussa Paros – Paroikia Paros

Early in the afternoon we anchored – under the watchful eyes of the ubiquitous nudists – close to the beach in crystal clear water in the north of Naoussa bay for a bit of a swim.

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Finally on our way, we made a commemorate circle around the notorious Portes rocks, see ferry disaster and took photos from all directions.
Restaurant Parostia 0284-21926 regaled us with superb dishes in their palm garden.

Day 15   Paroikia Paros

A sad day, as for five of us the holiday was over en hence they had to return to their home country - the Netherlands, leaving only Laura, Michiel and Diederik (me) behind on the Galaxy. No sailing for today, but some thorough exploring of Parikia (Paroikia).