Lefkas sailing holidays

This western coast is principally lined with sheer, bright-coloured & white rock faces reaching a height of 500 m, giving the island its name: from the Ancient Greek λευκός (leukós, “white”), compare leucocytes, “white blood cells”.

These precipitous cliffs provide an impressive backdrop for several sandy beaches that are among the most beautiful on the Ionian Islands.
The southern and eastern coastlines are richly indented. Many small coves and off-shore islands make for a picturesque view and offer yachtspersons ideal conditions for sailing holidays. See my:

• Guide to yacht charters
• Reliable yacht charter companies

• All Greek islands
• Ionian overview
• Corfu, North Ionian
• Lefkas, Meganisi
• Kefalonia, Ithaca
• Zakynthos
• Sailing itineraries Ionian islands

The main sources of income of the inhabitants – aside from tourism – are farming on the island's thin soil, fishing, the recovery of salt from the lagoon and various crafts, particularly lace and knitwear.

Mythology and history

The earliest evidence of human settlement on the island dates from the neolithic period.

In the 7th c. BCE the town of Leukas was founded by the settlers from Corinth, who closed off the south end of the lagoon, opposite the fort of Ayios Yeoryios (St George), by a 600 m long mole, remains of which are still visible under water. They cut a channel throught the spit of shingle at the north end of the lagoon, opposite the fort of Ayia Mavra (Santa Maura) – though by the time of the Peloponnesian War, in which Leukas was allied with Sparta, the channel had silted up.

In the time of the Achaean League Leukas was the capital of Acarnania. It supported Phillip II of Macedon against Rome, but was conquered in 197 BCE by the Romans, who later built a bridge linking Leukas to the mainland.

In the Middle Ages the island belonged to the Barons of Cephalonia and Zante and other Frankish dynasts.

In 1479 it was taken by the Ottomans – the only one of the Ionian islands to fall into Ottoman hands – but was recovered to Venice by Morosini in 1684.

After a brief interlude of French rule during the Napoleonic wars it was assigned in 1815 to Britain, which returned it to Greece, together with the other Ionian islands, in 1864.

As a result of the vicissitudes of its history and of a series of earthquakes, in particular the 1953 Ionian earthquake Lefkas has preserved very few old buildings, and whereas the other islands opted to rebuild in the traditional style, Lefkas town is a mix of modern mayham, yet with typical wooden architectural features designed to withstand earthquakes.

Wilhelm Dörpfeld

The German archaeologist Wilhelm Dörpfeld (1853 – 1940), who worked on Lefkas and made his home here, believed that this island, and not the one now called Ithaca, was the Homeric Ithaca, the home of Odysseus.

He based his theory mainly on topographical similarities between Lefkas and the Ithaca described in the “Odyssey”, but this was contested by other archaeologists, and Dörpfeld's excavations failed to produce convincing evidence in support of this theory.

Not as famous as his collegues Heinrich Schliemann, Arthur Evans or Frank Calvert, Dörpfeld's fundamental idea that locations mentioned in Homer's writings correspond to real places is now accepted.

Lefkas island

Vasiliki

Vasiliki - Βασιλική bay is one of the best windsurfing spots due to the strong mistral (NW) wind, which the surfdudes rebaptized as “Eric”. This also means dangerous gusts can occur, much like in the Kalamos strait, at Atokos island and the east coast of Ithaca.

Sivota

The Homeric town of Sivota - Σύβοτα – not to be confused with Syvota on the mainland – is set in charming verdant surroundings.

There are frequent strong gusts from the NW – NE, so instead of anchoring, ideally go stern-to the quays or pontoons.

The pontoons are operated quid pro quo by the adjoining tavernas. Try to dock at the pontoon of the “12 Gods Taverna”, the best dining in town, call +30 26450 31880 to reserve a berth.

The Mikros Gialos port will usually be full with fishing boats. Moreover, anchoring is prohibited within 45 m of the quay   , so only go stern-to with maximum scope. Otherwise anchor further west and take a line to the breakwater. The hamlet has some lovely tavernas, notably: “O Molos”.    In stable weather you can anchor near the north beach.

The berths on the pontoons and L-shaped pier are usually reserved: private / local fleet of charter yachts / Vlicho YC.

Most yachts prefer to anchor in the bay, and in peak season it is swarming. Since this large bay is an uninspiring impasse, best to steer clear altogether.

Nydri

The touristy village of Nidri or Nydri - Νυδρί lies at the entrance of Vlicho bay. Many sailing holidays start from this bustling little port.
The port (for the most part: quay) is only affected by easterlies and southerlies over 5 Bft; good holding in mud / weed, though use plenty of chain. Also keep the yacht well clear of the quay (or the outside pier of the fishing port) to allow for the wash of passing vessels and truly indifferent tripper boats & ferries.

Until then the best spots are:

• on the southernmost pontoon (Iris Hotel and yacht charter fleet)
• the outside of the fishing port
• on the quay just south of the northernmost pontoon

Tranquil bay – half a mile to the east – is usually so overcrowded that the anchorage should be called by its actual name: Liaditis bay

Avoid the tourist-trap-tavernas along the waterfront   , recommended are “George's place”, “Bardis Tavern” and “Anna Maria Restaurant”.
To cool down, bring bathing suits to swim at the stunning Nidri Waterfalls, pleasant walk 3½ km inland.

Lefkas city

The approach of Lefkas / Lefkada city - Πόλη της Λευκάδας from the north is rather challenging. The sandbank and silts at the northern end of the channel continuously change shape, and as of 2015 three groynes has been installed to protect the entrance, marked by 3 yellow buoys.  

The next hindernis is the floating bridge: when both its ramps are raised and rotated towards the East shore it leaves an opening of 30 m wide. Officially the yachts going South have right of way, but the gap is wide enough for two-way traffic. See the bridge in action [Youtube], looking East.

Both Lefkas city (Lefkada) and Nydri are bases for yacht charters → 50 – 60 minute drive from Aktion National Airport.

Visit the Archaeological Museum of Lefkada, which highlights Dörpfeld's excavations and findings from Mycenaean – Roman times.
Three churches stand out: St Spyridon on the main square, St Nikolaos on the market and the nearby Pandokrator - Ιερός Ναός Παντοκράτορος.

The Ancient town Nirikos is difficult to find, but do attempt the 40 min southbound quest / walk hugging the canal. The settlement was abandoned in 1300, with continuous earthquakes scattering its traces. The ancient city was protected by a wall of 4.5 kilometers long, which the inhabitants had reinforced with rectangular towers. Some parts of the wall are still preserved, surrounded by arcadian fields and olive trees.

Further reading

• See chart symbols for the meaning of e.g.
• Mediterranean mooring and anchoring
• The sailing season

Meganisi island

Off the south-east coast of Lefkas lies the sailor's paradise of Meganisi (meaning: “big island”, population ~1200, alt. 299 m) – the Homeric isle of Taphos – with a Chora, sandy beaches, fishing ports, sea caves, and a plethora of anchorages.
There is some farming land in the flatter western part of the island; the eastern part is occupied by a range of wooded hills interspersed with olive orchards accessible by walking trails leading all the way to the elongated southern Cape Kefali.

Zampati

Zampati - Ζαμπάτη is the first port in Spilia bay, which is ideal in all winds except NNE, in which case you should relocate to Spartochori, the second port in Spilia.

Spartochori

The nearby port of Spartochori - Σπαρτοχώρι – also in Spilia bay, but further east – is referred to as Spartachori in GWP.
A short section of the east quay can be used by visiting yachts, although most will have to moor at the SE quay, “Taverna Spilia”. The tiny mole (which is partly pontoon) for the fishing boats does not provide extra shelter and the prevailing NW – NWN winds blow right onto the SE quay. Fortunately good holding due to the steeply inclined seabed; some laid moorings, otherwise deep anchoring; most yachts go bows-to.

Same restaurants apply as in Zampati. The Chora is very worthwhile and you should be heading in that direction anyway: marvellous views.

Although immensely crowded in summer the appealing  Odyseas marina is rather the opposite of a typical concrete colourless marina.
In all but strong northerlies opt for the old harbour: less expensive and even more engaging, right at the town square and the superb Rose Garden Taverna.
There are shaded trails to the unspoilt village of Katomeri - Κατωμέρι, the “capital” of Meganisi.

Kapela bay

Kapela - Καπελά is the bay directly east of Vathy and is branded Kapali bay in GWP. There are four anchorages in weed / sand: one at the head of the bay, two deeper spots in the west coves and one in the east cove.

Ambelakia bay

The trifurcate Ambelakia - Αμπελάκια or Abelike bay further east offers at least 3 commodious yet often crowded coves. The south-easternmost spot (with a line to the north shore) is superior → amble to the Vathy town square.

Atherinós

The bay and modest port of Atherinós - Αθερινός, also known as Atheni, is open to the N – NE. Go stern-to or along-side the quay on the outside of the pier. Limited provisions, but lots of fresh fish and a few taverna.
The islet of Micro Nisopoula lies within the white sector of the lighthouse of Cape Elia.
There are several anchorages, notably to the north of the infamous reef Lat Long by preference place your anchor in deep water and take a line ashore.

Also sail to the sea caves   of Papanikolis Lat Long – where the homonymous submarine took cover during World War II – and Giováni Lat Long

Mainland Greece

Varko

Opposite Lefkas island – in the east approach of the channel – is Varko - Βαρκό bay guarded by the wooded islet of Agios Nikolaos.
To avoid the various reefs, extending from capes, steer towards the islet from open waters.

Good holding in sand and protected against the northwesterlies. The middle stretch along the north-west shore is riddled with shoals, anchor at either beach or, more adventurous: take a line ashore Lat Long

Palairos

The delightful village and port of Palairos - Πάλαιρος offers allround protection. In the afternoon the prevailing wind is WNW, veering to a nightly – possibly stronger – ENE flowing down from the formidable Acarnanian mountains.
The best restaurant is a short distance from the waterfront: enjoy the walk to, and the crawl back from “The new mill taverna”.

In most berths there is solid holding in mud, but be sure that the anchor holds. A large flotilla fleet operates out of Palairos: all amenities available. In an emergency the charter marina Vounaki further south can be used.

Ancient Palairos   is 11 km (25 min. by taxi) to the north-west.
In the first year of the Peloponnesian War (431 BCE) Palairos was in alliance with the Athenians; and when the latter conquered the neighbouring town of Sollium – a Corinthian colony – Athens handed Sollium plus its territory to the inhabitants of Palairos.

Palairos existed at least as early as the 6th c. BCE, but reached its zenith in the 3rd c. BCE.

In 31 / 30 BCE, after the Battle of Aktion and the foundation of Nikopolis by Octavian Augustus the city must have been abandoned, since all the inhabitants of Acarnania and Epirus were forcibly moved to Nikopolis.

The city walls present one of the most extraordinary examples of defensive architecture in western Greece, still standing in their original height. It is ca. 2 km long, enclosing the city center and terminating in an acropolis on top of the hill. The city also spreads outside of the fortification, where a large number of ancient house ruins can be seen.

The part of the walls that use the polygonal system date to the 5th c. BCE, and most of the rest of the fortification covers the time span of the end of the 4th c. BCE. At some sections the wall is reminiscent of cyclopean construction. Stairs leading to the battlements still stand and can be used even today.

Six towers were built next to the 7 gates, the best preserved ones are the (central) north gate and the vaulted north-western gate or “harbour gate”.

Visible house remains show a unified city plan organized in the Hippodamian system. The ancient agora and likely stoa are on the northern part of the plateau.

Mytikas

Mytikas or Mytika - Μύτικας on the mainland is a non-touristy working place.
The unfinished breakwaters of the 2nd basin are now overall below sea level. In the larger basin there is good shelter aside from the SSW winds; few available berths.

Kalamos island

Episkopi

Episkopí - Επισκοπή is a rather shallow and isolated port on the north coast of Kalamos. Closer to the entrance there are sufficient depths – smaller yachts can dock in further inside. The port is unsuitable in westerlies and stronger easterlies; the foliage combines amazingly with the cerulean waters.

Along the coast farther east there are several (lunch-stop) anchorages (and small piers to tie a line to), notably at the monastery and at the Ayios Donatos church.

Kalamos port

The port of Kálamos - Κάλαμος is surrounded by magnificent woods, while higher up the more barren hills are visible, since these rise up to a steep 754 m. There is allround protection except from a strong Sirocco (SE) that could occur in early spring.

Eagleray, Navionics and C-Map mention a reef 045° and 780 m from the light, 100 m from the coast. Also C-Map shows a stone awash directly east from the port.

Kefali / Gerolimnionas

Kefali - Κεφαλί also known as Gerolimniónas - Γερολιμνιωνας is a lovely bay on the south-east coast of Kalamos. The village of Kefali, known in earlier days by its Venetian name “Porto Leone”, was abandoned following the 1953 Ionian earthquake. Note, that the Port Leone Bar is out of business; the jetty is now private; on 30 June and 15 August pilgrims visit the church.
Anchor at the north or south beaches, or rather – my favourite – east of the two derelict windmils; good holding, aquamarine water.
See Greek chart terms.

Kastos island

Kastos port

Kastos is a low-lying island – the hills peak at just 143 m – generally barren, yet with some fertile cultivated areas: figs, opuntia and very old olive trees. Since there are only a few roads the islanders travel by boat.

When approaching the port of Kastos - Κάστος on the south cape you will see the conspicious windmill that now hosts a cocktail bar.  

Go stern-to the breakwaters inside the basin or anchor and take a long line the the west or north beaches.

Poor holding and only solid shelter in SN – NE winds. Setting a second anchor is advised. Katabatic gusts from the mainland flowing down from the NE, so the breakwaters are the preferred berths. In SSW winds the port can become untenable.

The small water taxi (Kastos → Mytikas) docks close to the entrance of the fishing port, alternatively you can anchor and take a line to the south quay. Tavernas open in the summer.

Vathy Vali

The lovely anchorage of Vathy Vali - Βαθύ Βάλι bay is directly south of Sarakiniko, yet rather on the east coast of Kastos island.
As the name “vathy” alludes it is very deep, so get close to the shore in the northern cove and place the second anchor on the beach Lat Long