Kos & Nisyros sailing holidays

You might want to look now at the Glossary of Volcanic & Geologic Terms.

Nisyros is a green and well-watered island, with fertile soil which is cultivated on laboriously construced terraces on the outward-facing slopes.

Further south is the beautiful island of Tilos (Italian: Piscopi or Episcopi), which is less frequently visited by tourists and yachties. Near Livadia, the island's port, are the ruins of a Venetian castle and the Kharkadio cave, in which the bones of prehistoric dwarf elephants were found.

British Admiralty Charts 1055, 1531

Kos, Nisyros and Tilos ports & anchorages

Kos chart

The Byzantines were succeeded as rulers of the island by the Knights of St John (1306 – 1523), who in the 14th c. established the main seat of their Order in the island's capital Narangia (now the town of Kos).

Kos was captured by the Ottomans some years earlier than Rhodes. Occupied by Italy in 1912, during the Balkan War, it was returned to Greece in 1948.

Kos port

The “old port of Kos” or simply Kos port - Λιμάνι Κω is located in a large shallow bay; in the approach the north cape should be kept at a distance.

Note that ±85 berths of the old port is now – under the name Mandraki Port Kos – operated by the Kos marina; without seemingly adding any facilities. The north-east side has lazy-lines, wheras the north-west side requires anchoring. Mind that anchors get regularly here lifted by the superyachts, plus neighbouring chains will most likely cross. Since reservations are mandatory anyway, you can and should request a berth with lazy-lines. All the more since the east side is situated under the Castle of the Knights (1450 – 80): the best part of the old port with matching palm trees and less noisy.

See, how mooring with lazy-lines works.

Kos town is full of bougainvillea, jasmine and exotic whiffs of the middle east.
Our personal top 3 of restaurants is “Aliada”, “Lovemade” and “Kapari Meze”.  

Kos hydrofoil pier

In between the marina and the old port is the hydrofoil pier, which is free of charge, hence there is no water, no electricity.
The outer two-thirds of the pier have depths over 2 m, most is 4 m or deeper. Up to 25 knots of NW is doable, but not suitable in Meltemi winds. Moreover, ferries come and go and create a wash; police building ashore; very quiet. The place to go when both the old port and the marina are full, but also a very accessible venue to explore Kos town from if the wind conditions allow it, i.e. not too strong and not NE or east.
Directly ashore are the Sanctuary of Aphrodite and the Tree of Hippokrates.  

Kos marina

The bland utilitarian Kos marina - Μαρίνα Κω has its merits for the yacht charter companies and is still within walking distance of downtown Kos. Note that there is a wide variety in quality of the offered yachts. Few available berths in the weekends because of the rotation of the charter yachts.

Except for severe weather forecasts try to get a berth in the pleasant old port first.

Upon approach contact the Kos marina office on VHF  77.

The marina offers all-round shelter with 250 berths, you will use a permanent mooring. The harbour master will meet you near the entrance in a RIB and assist you towards your spot.

Fuel quay is located south of the Kos marina.

Kardamaina

The port of Kardámena or Kardámaina - Καρδάμαινα offers allround shelter, a great beach, and all amenities: a convenient place to resupply.
However, there are just about ±7 berths available for visiting yachts, VHF 12 Harbour Office, large catamarans likely won't find a spot. The tourist boats have their reserved spots clearly marked.
Moreover, this stretch of coast – bordering Kos Airport (KGS) – caters to both lager louts and posh British tourists, meaning aquaparks, boozing bars and beach resorts – even two outlandish “Pirates of the…” ships. This tourist trap has become as unGreek as it gets. Yet, astonishingly, in 2000 this was still an authentic fishing port where you had to go stern-to a sloping soft-sandy quay!

Directly south of the port is the archaeological site of Alasarna where continuous excavations unearthed, afresh in 2020, many significant finds.
A 40 min. hike uphill is the 14th c. Antimachia Castle     [in German] overlooking the busy strait between Kos and Nisyros.

Kamari

Kamári - Καμάρι is the recognised name of the port and marvelous turquoise bay Lat Long under Kéfalos - Κέφαλος village.

The GWP incorrectly calls the bay and port “Kamares” or “Kamara”, and “Palaiokastro” is locally known as the anchorage under Kastri.
See, Kamares (Καμάρες in Greek means “arches”), the main port of Sifnos island.
Also, the labelled ferry quay never existed and the basin is reserved for local vessels and ferries. Fortunately, Eagleray, Garmin and C-MAP show the correct situation.  

As a result visiting yachts always go stern-to the outside, while the locals go alongside the inside. Freighters will use the mole near the red harbour light, and their mooring lines (partly) block the southern side of this mole, leaving only room for one or two yachts, but you can easily place your second anchor on the blocks! Berths, water and electricity are free of charge.

Most yachts will anchor in the bay, one of the preferred spots is south of the mole; good holding and safe during Meltemi; winds are typically either northerlies or southerlies, choose your anchorage accordingly; shallow in the north and deep in the south of the bay. The ferry arrival is just a short importunity, but offloading of the freighter (with cement or otherwise) brings hours of trucks to the scene.

Restaurant of choice is “Cavos” located on the beach directly north of the port; the owner is also a beekeeper and vends delicious honeys.
On the ridge above the Kamari bay is Kefalos village and the ruins of the Kastro.
This southern section of Kos is arguably the prettiest, with appealing seascapes, fertile hills, steep cliffs, and less tourism.

Limnionas

Limniónas - Λιμνιώνας is suggested as allround shelter by various guides (including the GWP and Eagleray), but we never dared to enter this small and shallow harbour. Significantly, we only once saw a small catamaran inside… Lat Long
Mind the shoal roughly near the “Taverna Limionas”; local fishing boats have rights to all the quayside; old (but working) beach shower ashore; allround shelter; 2,5 m depth max. and silted at the W and S inside the basin; weed patches and sandy bottom; keep close to the green harbour light when entering, but entrance is still >30 m wide; taverna serves (rep. very good fish dishes) only during daytime, very quiet in the evening.
This fishing port is proper for catamarans / yachts with a draft of <1.50 m. Well, reportedly, you can anchor inside with a draft of 2.2 m, but holding is suspect due to too much weeds (updated Apr 2024).

Mastichari

The insouciant ferry port of Mastichári - Μαστιχάρι on Kos' north-east coast is a safe harbour during a Meltemi (NW). Moreover, Mastikhari offers solid shelter from SSE – NNE winds.
Caution 1) SE storms are problematic and NE – E storms bring in such high waves that it is untenable.
Caution 2) The port is known for its bad holding due to dead weeds and thin mud / sand, making it extra difficult in southerlies.

Note that only a tiny area inside the basin is not silted up, and you should stay quite close to the north quay   check Eagleray, Garmin or C-MAP before entering.

Since the port seems a well kept secret, berths are predictably available, despite space for just 5 – 7 cruising / charter yachts.
Go stern-to the north quay between the day tripper boats on the west side and the ferry dock near the harbour light. The “Olympios Zeus” car ferry to Kalymnos sails 2+ times a day, see time table.
The preferred berths are on the west (but shallower) side, because the ferry's mooring lines can spread out at 45 degrees. Lat Long Moreover, a smaller ferry (several operators) can go alongside in the middle section, see time table.
On the quay there are water faucets, but no electricity.

Hidden in a backstreet is the very affordable “O Makis” psarotaverna / fish restaurant   , the cook catches the fish as well.
The town is tranquil, child friendly and clean – friends of us spotted dolphins inside the port (2021 Oct).

If you need to drop off, or pick up crew   the Kos Airport (Antimachia village) is a mere 10 min. taxi drive away.

The German archaeologist Ludwig Ross, while visiting Kos in 1844, saw the remains of an ancient port and ruins of a settlement from the early Christian period in the vicinity of Mastichari, and a 15 min. hike along the SW coast brings you to the archaeological site of the Early Christian Basilica of St John, which ground plan is well preserved.

After the devastating earthquake that hit Antimachia in 1926, 18 families decided to settle in Mastichari, named after the mastic trees that used to thrive in the area. In 1930, the topographic service of the Italian administration implemented an urban planning of Mastichari, with an orthogonal grid of 5 and 3 roads.

In 1944, the Germans built a wooden pier for military purposes that remained in use until the current harbour was constructed in the eighties. For decades, the largest part of Antimachia’s production of watermelons was gathered on Mastichari’s beach and shipped to Kalymnos.

Nisyros, Gyali chart

Gyali island

The volcanic island of Gyali, Giali or Yali - Γυαλί (Greek for “glass”) isn't very sightly with its industrial vibe due to strip mining, yet is one the safest places in stronger northerlies / Meltemi.

It consists of two distinct segments – connected by a narrow 250 m wide isthmus – the NE part almost entirely made of obsidian (volcanic glass, hence its name) and the SW part of pumice (volcanic ash). The water there is sometimes whitened by the mineral dust.
The last eruption was around 1460 BCE – relatively short after the Minoan Eruption of Santorini.

Archaeological finds show that the island was already settled near the end of the Neolithic period, approx. 4500 – 3200 BCE, and also in Hellenistic and Roman times.
Local obsidian was of lesser quality than that of Milos, which hampered trade.

There are several anchor spots:

• Anchor over sand in 4 – 6 m NE Lat Long of the three piers for loading pumice. Not everywhere solid holding, make sure your anchor holds (Eagleray even mentions “poor holding”); mind the mooring buoys used by freighters.
  The isthmus has a pleasant beach, yet for snorkeling try the rocks close to Ag Antonios.
  Mind the hazardous reef 0.4 NM SE off the southern Cape Kaloutoi of Gyali island.

Nisyros was originally settled by Dorians from Kos and Kamiros (Rhodes). In 1312 it was occupied by the Knights of St John, and later became a fief of the Assanti family. It was taken by the Turks in 1533.

A caldera is not the same as a crater

• A caldera is a depression created after a volcano releases the majority of the contents of its magma chamber in an explosive eruption. Without any structural support below, the land around the erupting volcanic vent or vents collapses inwardly  , creating the bowl-shaped caldera, as much as 100 kilometers wide.
• Craters are formed by the outward  explosion of rocks and other materials from a volcano, and are usually more circular than calderas.
  Calderas, like Milos or Santorini, may have parts of their sides missing because land collapses unevenly.
  Craters are also usually much smaller than calderas, only extending to a maximum of one kilometer in diameter.
  Nisyros is a textbook example with its <100 – 300 m craters inside a nearly 4 km caldera.

Nisyros can experience the Meltemi Etesian wind through late June – August.
This is most obvious on the eastern and western flanks of the volcano, where trees are bent towards the south from the force of the winds. The wind may be especially strong on the island due to jet effects as it passes over Kos.
Weather forecasts on board.

The Romans arrived in 42 BCE, and archaeological finds from Roman and early-Christian times demonstrate the prosperity of the island until the 551 Beirut earthquake. Lateron Tilos joined fortunes with Rhodes: The Knights of Saint John took control from 1309, restoring the Byzantine castles, and building new ones in order to defend against pirate raids. It was evacuated in 1470 as the Ottomans began the Siege of Rhodes and control passed to Suleiman I in 1522 when Rhodes fell. The Italians took posession of the island, after the Italo-Turkish War, from 1912 till 1943.

Gaidaros islet

The small islet just north of Tilos island, Gáidaros Megálou Chorioú - Γάιδαρος Μεγάλου Χωριού or in short: Gáidaros (Gaidaronísi) - Γάιδαρος (Γαϊδουρονήσι) meaning Donkey islet, has a suitable and generally unknown anchorage on the SSE side Lat Long; anchor in 3+ m over sand (the weed patches are clearly visible) and take a line the northern side of the beach (NW corner); delightfully off the beaten track; exposed to ENE – SSW winds. There is a lighthouse on the north side and you will find some remaining concrete+wooden structures from the Italians.
Gaidouronisi was a metochion of the on Tilos situated Monastery of Agios Panteleimonas - Μονή Aγίου Παντελεήμονα.
Note that there is also a similarly named Gaïdaros (Livadion) islet just north of Livadia port.

Plaka

Pláka - Πλάκα beach under the north Tilos' Cape Spanó (Poúnta) is a safe anchorage even during strong Meltemi (here NNW). Just north of the beach (mostly pebbled) is a conspicious wind turbine.

This spot is known for its excellent holding; anchor close to the shore in 5 – 10 m over sand (and patches of weed); the bay is deep Lat Long; nearly allround protection, yet very vulnerable to NNE – NE winds,   in which case you should relocate to either Livadia or the south coast (Limenari or Eristos).
The encompassing bay is called Ormos Agíou Antoníou or O. Plágio / Pláyio.

The second reason to drop anchor here – aside from finding shelter – is to visit the Monastery of Agios Panteleimonas - Μονή Aγίου Παντελεήμονα (also the island's patron saint), which is a 40 min. hike up the slopes of Mt Profitis Ilias (654 m).
The well preserved monastery features fresh cold water springs as well as an enormous loquat tree, all set in verdant surroundings that span the island's width.